{"id":152,"date":"2024-12-23T05:14:18","date_gmt":"2024-12-23T05:14:18","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/?p=152"},"modified":"2024-12-23T06:02:09","modified_gmt":"2024-12-23T06:02:09","slug":"introduzione-introduction-%e3%82%a4%e3%83%b3%e3%83%88%e3%83%ad%e3%83%80%e3%82%af%e3%82%b7%e3%83%a7%e3%83%b3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/foods-blog\/introduzione-introduction-%e3%82%a4%e3%83%b3%e3%83%88%e3%83%ad%e3%83%80%e3%82%af%e3%82%b7%e3%83%a7%e3%83%b3\/","title":{"rendered":"Introduction-\u30a4\u30f3\u30c8\u30ed\u30c0\u30af\u30b7\u30e7\u30f3"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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In epoca romana sia i ricchi che la plebe, in seguito sostituita dai cafoni, mangiavano riuniti in famiglia soltanto la sera:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

i primi perch\u00e9 durante il giorno passavano il tempo ad occuparsi di politica o d’affari, i secondi erano vincolati dalle cure dei campi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ma mentre le classi abbienti potevano permettersi di offrire convivi, i cafoni riuscivano a mettere assieme soltanto una sola portata, per lo pi\u00f9 costituita da una minestra abbondante, fatta con cereali frantumati o con legumi secchi e verdure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Si pu\u00f2 dire che se \u00e8 vero che la cucina italiana di tutti i giorni ha ereditato il sistema latino delle classi privilegiate, con servizio oggi detto alla russa, ossia con portate servite in un ordine stabilito, \u00e8 anche vero che la cucina tradizionale delle campagne ha preceduto il cosiddetto “piatto unico”, oggi tanto esaltato. La stessa cucina povera, con la subbrataula pugliese, ha tenuto poi in vita l’originaria portata di chiusura che altro non era che un post pasto, un riempitivo occasionale costituito soprattutto di ortaggi e frutta di stagione.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nel 1958, con un metodo di ricerca piuttosto originale, Si dimostrava che i Napoletani, prima di meritarsi l’epiteto di mangiamaccheroni erano appellati mangiafoglia. E quando si parla di Napoletani, si pu\u00f2 benissimo parlare di Pugliesi, Lucani, Calabresi e Siciliani e si pu\u00f2 dire tranquillamente che essi sono prima di tutto mangiafoglie, perch\u00e9 nella cucina del Sud foglie sono i cavoli (anche se poi se ne mangiano i broccoli) e foglie sono le cime di rapa, le cicorie (anche se si consumano soprattutto le punte) e la senape nera (san\u00e0pi, sen\u00e0pi); foglie sono anche tutte le verdure selvatiche, specialmente ‘mische, raccolte ad arte e mescolate con cura per ottenere il massimo gradimento dello stomaco.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Questo non vuol dire, per\u00f2, che la cucina del Sud sia solo cucina per vegetariani; qui si pratica anche  e come!  la cucina associata, cio\u00e8 quella cucina che crea l’unione ideale tra prodotti vegetali e prodotti animali, tra foglie e carne, tra foglie e prodotti caseari. Gli esempi sono infiniti e ne vedremo parecchi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’antichissima e ancora famosa olla podrida, di tradizione spagnola, non \u00e8 altro che uno stufato di ceci e verdure varie ne carne di vacca, montone, pollo, nonch\u00e9 prosciutto e salsiccia; cos\u00ec come il napoletano pignato mmaretato, pure a base di varie carni e verdure, in cui si compie una altissima sintesi tra foglie di verdure, carne e grassi animali. Sono entrambi piatti di origine popolare, abbondanti, per gente che quando si sedeva a tavola spesso doveva risolvere prima di tutto il problema della fame.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le cicore a minescia del Salento che associano il maiale sia con la catalogna cimata che con la cicoria selvatica sono un ottimo esempio di cucina associata, cos\u00ec come la bruschetta di pane spalmato con ricotta forte, lo spezzatino con patate, le paste asciutte con rag\u00f9 e formaggio, la pizza.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tornando al servizio, nella cucina popolare non si pu\u00f2 parlare di servizio alla russa, cio\u00e8 di quel modo servire in tavola imposto dopo il 1856 da Urbain Dubois e tutt’ora in vigore, fatto di piatti in successione con un preciso criterio (primo, secondo, dessert); la tradizione del Sud \u00e8 pi\u00f9 vicina al cosiddetto servizio alla francese (il vecchio stile della cucina di corte di portare in tavola un gran numero di piatti tutti assieme con l’idea di fare sfoggio di abbondanza e lusso): in una sola portata si serviva tutto quello che c’era a disposizione, in mezzo alla tavola un gran piatto dal quale tutti attingevano con la propria posata; al massimo, a fine pasto, era disponibile frutta secca per concludere o finocchi freschi oppure coste di sedano, che peraltro servivano a mandar gi\u00f9 volentieri l’ultimo bicchiere di vino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Per questo motivo il BLOG pu\u00f2 essere considerato un viaggio appassionato nella tradizione italiana pi\u00f9 direttamente permeata di cultura<\/p>\n\n\n\n

mediterranea. Di quella cultura che ha generato la famosa dieta ormai da trent’anni presa ad esempio da molti dietisti mondiali per il suo basso livello di grassi saturi e di colesterolo, alti livelli di carboidrati complessi e fibre e che utilizza l’olio d’oliva come maggiore sorgente di lipidi. Ancora oggi \u00e8 ritenuta l’unica in grado di difenderci dalle malattie tipiche della “civilizzazione”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c8 chiaro, tuttavia, che l’argomento non pu\u00f2 essere esaurito in cos\u00ec poche pagine; qui si \u00e8 voluto soltanto mettere in rilievo gli aspetti pi\u00f9 significativi della cucina di quella parte d’Italia costituita dalle regioni\u00a0Campania<\/strong>,\u00a0Puglia, Lucania, Calabria e Sicilia<\/strong>, di quelle regioni che grosso modo corrispondono al territorio degli antichi regni di Napoli e di Sicilia poi diventati regno delle Due Sicilie sotto Alfonso d’Aragona.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Su queste regioni sono passati tanti dominatori: i Greci, i Romani, i Bizantini, i Longobardi, i Normanni, gli Angioini, gli Aragonesi, i Borboni e i Savoia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dal punto di vista delle abitudini alimentari, tutti lasciarono qualcosa della loro cultura e questo qualcosa entr\u00f2 nel patrimonio delle popolazioni sotto- messe. I Greci lasciarono l’uso delle olive verdi, quello della ricotta, del miele e del vino; dei Romani sono rimaste la purea di fave, le seppie ripiene, le cipolle al forno, le salsicce ed i sanguinacci; i Bizantini lasciarono l’uso delle spezie d’Oriente; gli Arabi, oltre a portare le tecniche della pasta secca, introdussero la coltura della canna da zucchero e con la neve dell’Etna e la frutta siciliana inventarono i sorbetti, portarono l’uso dell’anice e nuove spezie come la cannella e lo zafferano; lasciarono, gli Arabi, il cuscus; i Normanni, oltre a costruire grandi opere d’arte, portarono le aringhe affumicate ed il baccal\u00e0 bagnato nel latte; con gli Spagnoli e con i Francesi si afferm\u00f2 la doppia cultura gastronomica dei ricchi e dei poveri. Cosa portarono i Savoia, la storia non l’ha ancora stabilito.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sono rimaste tracce anche dei contatti con i Genovesi e in tutto il Sud si preparano piatti “alla genovese”, un modo di cucinare sconosciuto in Liguria, cos\u00ec come si cucinano “alla parmigiana” tanti piatti tipici della cucina meridionale. Nella cucina del Sud la braciola non \u00e8 una semplice fetta di carne da cuocere alla brace sulla graticola o una fetta di carne con l’osso, ma \u00e8, invece, carne arrotolata che pu\u00f2 essere di manzo o di vitello, ma anche d’agnello o trippa e che spesso serve per preparare un rag\u00f9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Denominatore comune, o dominatore, della cucina del Sud si pu\u00f2 affermare essere il peperoncino; la diabolica bacca rossa \u00e8 tanto importante che annualmente in vari posti si tengono mani- festazioni tendenti a valorizzarne l’impiego. A Diamante, in Calabria, per esempio, \u00e8 stata di recente fondata un’Accademia del peperoncino con tanto di statuto associativo, tessere di appartenenza, convegni e distintivo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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In Roman times, both the rich and the plebeians, later replaced by the boors, ate together as a family only in the evening:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

the former because during the day they spent their time on politics or business, the latter were bound by the cares of the fields.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But while the wealthy classes could afford to provide feasts, the peasants could only put together a single course, mostly consisting of a hearty soup made from crushed cereals or dried pulses and vegetables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It can be said that if it is true that everyday Italian cuisine inherited the Latin system of the privileged classes, with service today known as Russian style, i.e. with courses served in an established order, it is also true that traditional country cooking preceded the so-called ‘piatto unico’, which is so extolled today. The same poor cuisine, with the Apulian subbrataula, then kept alive the original closing course that was nothing more than an after-meal, an occasional filler consisting mainly of seasonal vegetables and fruit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 1958, with a rather original method of research, it was shown that the Neapolitan’s, before deserving the epithet of mangiamaccheroni were called mangiafoglia. And when one speaks of Neapolitan’s, one can just as well speak of Pugliese, Lucanians, Calabrians and Sicilians and one can safely say that they are first and foremost leaf-eaters, because in the cuisine of the South leaves are cabbage (although broccoli is eaten) and leaves are turnip greens, chicory (although the tips are mostly eaten) and black mustard (san\u00e0pi, sen\u00e0pi); leaves are also all the wild vegetables, especially ‘mische’, artfully picked and carefully mixed for maximum stomach enjoyment<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is not to say, however, that southern cuisine is only vegetarian cuisine; associated cuisine is also practised here, and how! that is to say, that cuisine which creates the ideal union between vegetable and animal products, between leaves and meat, between leaves and dairy products. The examples are endless and we will see many of them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The very old and still famous olla podrida, of Spanish tradition, is nothing more than a stew of chickpeas and various vegetables in cow, mutton, chicken, as well as ham and sausage; as is the Neapolitan pignato mmaretato, also made with various meats and vegetables, in which a very high synthesis of leaves and vegetables, meat and animal fats is achieved. Both are dishes of popular origin, abundant, for people who when they sat down to eat often had to solve the problem of hunger first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cicore a minescia from the Salento region, associating pork with both selvedged catalogna and wild chicory, is an excellent example of associated cuisine, as is bruschetta bread spread with ricotta forte, stew with potatoes, dry pasta with meat sauce and cheese, and pizza.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Returning to the service, in popular cuisine we cannot speak of Russian service, i.e. that way of serving at table imposed after 1856 by Urbain Dubois and still in force today, made up of dishes in succession with a precise criterion (first course, second course, dessert); the tradition of the South is closer to the so-called French service (the old style of court cuisine of bringing a large number of dishes to the table all at once with the idea of showing off abundance and luxury): everything that was available was served in a single course, in the middle of the table a large plate from which everyone drew with their cutlery; at the most, at the end of the meal, there was dried fruit to finish or fresh fennel or celery ribs, which moreover served to gladly wash down the last glass of wine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is why the BLOG can be considered a passionate journey into the Italian tradition most directly permeated with the Mediterranean culture. Of that culture that generated the famous diet that has been taken as an example by many dietitians worldwide for thirty years now for its low level of saturated fats and cholesterol, high levels of complex carbohydrates and fibre, and which uses olive oil as the major source of lipids. Even today, it is still considered the only one that can defend us against the diseases typical of ‘civilisation’.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is clear, however, that the subject cannot be exhausted in such a few pages; here we only wanted to highlight the most significant aspects of the cuisine of that part of Italy consisting of the regions of Campania, Apulia, Lucania, Calabria and Sicily, those regions that roughly correspond to the territory of the former kingdoms of Naples and Sicily that later became the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies under Alfonso of Aragon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Many rulers have passed over these regions: the Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, the Lombards, the Normans, the Angevins, the Aragons, the Bourbons and the Savoyards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From the point of view of eating habits, they all left something of their culture and this something entered the heritage of the under- put populations. The Greeks left the use of green olives, ricotta cheese, honey and wine; the Romans left broad bean puree, stuffed cuttlefish, baked onions, sausages and black pudding; the Byzantines left the use of spices from the East; the Arabs, as well as bringing the techniques of dry pasta, introduced the cultivation of sugar cane and with snow from Mount Etna and Sicilian fruit invented sorbets, brought the use of aniseed and new spices such as cinnamon and saffron; left, the Arabs, the couscous; the Normans, as well as building great works of art, brought smoked herring and cod soaked in milk; with the Spanish and the French, the dual gastronomic culture of the rich and the poor was established. What the Savoy brought, history has not yet established.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Traces also remain of contacts with the Genoese, and throughout the South, dishes are prepared ‘alla genovese’, a way of cooking unknown in Liguria, just as many typical southern dishes are cooked ‘alla parmigiana’. In southern cooking, the ‘braciola’ is not a simple slice of meat to be barbecued on the grill or a slice of meat with the bone, but is, instead, rolled meat that can be beef or veal, but also lamb or tripe and is often used to prepare a meat sauce.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The common denominator, or ruler, of southern cuisine can be said to be chilli peppers; the devilish red berry is so important that every year in various places there are festivities to promote its use. In Diamante, Calabria, for example, a Chilli Pepper Academy was recently founded, complete with association statutes, membership cards, conferences and badges.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In epoca romana sia i ricchi che la plebe, in seguito sostituita dai cafoni, mangiavano […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-152","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-foods-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/152","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=152"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/152\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":154,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/152\/revisions\/154"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=152"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=152"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=152"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}