\u00c8 opinione diffusa, avvalorata da molti ricercatori, che le papille gustative poste nella nostra bocca percepiscano solo quattro dei sapori fondamentali: dolce, salato, amaro e acido. Ultimamente gli apologeti della cucina orientale hanno tentato di diffondere l’idea di un quinto sapore, l’umami, identificabile, per\u00f2, solo da palati particolari o particolarmente addestrati, un sapore rinvenibile soprattutto nei sali dell’acido glutammico largamente utilizzati dall’industria alimentare come esaltatori di sapidit\u00e0. Tutta la cucina orientale impiega, forse in modo eccessivo, questi sali, tanto che in medicina esiste una sindrome cosiddetta da ristorante cinese provocata, nei soggetti predisposti, proprio dal loro uso o abuso.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Come quinto sapore importante, noi, lo ribadiamo, riteniamo debba essere considerato il piccante, quella sensazione gradevole o fastidiosa, a seconda delle abitudini che possono dare ingredienti come l’Abrotano, il Rafano o Cren, il Pepe, il Ravanello, il Crescione d’acqua, il Pepe d’acqua dei fossi, certi formaggi come il pecorino, il Gorgonzola, il Bagolino e, soprattutto, il Peperoncino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ed \u00e8 il Peperoncino che molto spesso caratterizza la cucina del Sud – in qualche caso sostituito dalla ricotta forte -. \u00c8 il piccante che domina molti piatti napoletani, pugliesi, lucani, calabresi e siciliani e gli aggettivi per indicarlo sono uschiante, scant, forte, vruscente, quel piccante che n\u00e9 la nouvelle cuisine, n\u00e9 la cosiddetta cucina creativa sono riuscite a cancellare; anzi al Sud ha resistito senza scosse ed ora siamo alla resa dei conti, la cucina locale si sta prendendo la sua rivincita su quella “internazionale”.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ma torniamo al tema di questo BLOG. Abbiamo gi\u00e0 nominato alcuni ingredienti della cucina piccante e vogliamo ricordare, anche se solo con qualche accenno, il loro impiego. L’Abrotano, per esempio, \u00e8 una pianta erbacea a foglie filiformi spesso utilizzata per insaporire arrosti e insalate; il Rafano o ed \u00e8 la base indispensabile per la preparazione di molte salse di Cren, di cui si utilizzano le radici grattugiate, \u00e8 importantissimo accompagnamento per bolliti e arrosti: \u00e8 tanto piccante da far arricciare il naso; dell’uso dei formaggi piccanti per le salse \u00e8 sufficiente ricordare il pecorino sardo tradizionalmente insostituibile nella preparazione del pesto genovese diverso da quello un po’ soft oggi ottenuto con il grana e tutti gli altri pecorini stagionati.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Il Peperoncino, per\u00f2, richiede un’attenzione particolare in quanto grazie ad esso il mondo, cos\u00ec come l’Italia, pu\u00f2 virtualmente dirsi diviso in dolce e piccante, i paesi freddi dolci e quelli caldi piccanti. Grosso modo \u00e8 dolce l’Italia settentrionale, piccante quella centrale e meridonale, partendo dalla Versilia, tutta piccantissima, e scendendo fino a tutte le isole, esclusa la Sarde- \u00c8 chiaro poi che tra le regioni piccanti si potrebbe fissare anche un’ulteriore suddivisione, in Calabria e in Basilicata, per esempio, il Peperoncino non \u00e8 tipico di piatti particolari, lo mettono dappertutto, anche nel caff\u00e8, dice qualcuno per rendere bene l’idea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Basti pensare che in Basilicata hanno una sugna piccante ottenuta manipolandola a lungo, lo strutto fresco, con sale e peperoncino; si conserva in vasetti di vetro o nelle vesciche di maiale e serve come companatico da spalmare sul pane o per dare forza a vari piatti di tutti i giorni; il modo di prepararla fa ve- nire in mente il pennicam, l’alimento ad alto valore energetico, della tradizione degli Indiani del Nord America, consistente in striscioline di carne di bufalo o di cervo essiccata e ridotta in poltiglia, quindi mescolata con amarene o altri frutti selvatici pure essiccati. Oggi come oggi, il piccante \u00e8 apprezzato anche al Nord, ma \u00e8 solo un’acquisizione recente dovuta all’emigrazione di molta gente del Sud che al Nord si \u00e8 trasferita armi e bagagli, anche con gli usi della propria cucina, e l\u00ec ha messo solide radici contribuendo a modificare gli antichi costumi delle popolazioni ospitanti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
E data l’importanza di questa spezia, riteniamo di dover dare qualche nozione botanica della pianta che la produce; resta inteso che chi sa gi\u00e0 tutto pu\u00f2 subito girare pagina. Essa appartiene al genere Capsicum della famiglia delle Solonacee, a quello stesso genere che ci d\u00e0 anche il Peperone, lo squisito ortaggio estivo che ora, in appositi ambienti, si produce in ogni stagione. Stabilito il genere, per\u00f2, bisogna mettersi d’accordo sulla specie; sin dal secolo scorso studiosi di sistematica hanno cercato di fare chiarezza sull’argomento, ma spesso \u00e8 stata creata soltanto nuova confusione. Ad ogni modo, dai 90 nomi specifici di partenza si pass\u00f2 a soli venticinque, per poi giungere alla conclusione che le specie erano due: il Capsicum annuum e il Capsicum frutescens, distinzione quest’ultima, per\u00f2, basata esclusivamente sulle caratteristiche vegetative e sulla durata del ciclo biologico. Nella prima venivano comprese tutte le variet\u00e0 a sviluppo annuale o biennale, erbacee o suffruticose, nella seconda quelle a ciclo pluriennale, arbustive. Non manca oggi chi ritiene tutte le variet\u00e0 coltivate come provenienti da un’unica specie, la Capsicum annuum, il Peperone ad ogni modo, la C. frutescens pu\u00f2 essere determinata soltanto nei climi sub-tropicali del Sud America dove il Peperone ha avuto origine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Alcuni studiosi, poi, basandosi soltanto sulla forma, parlano di due convariet\u00e0: gros sum e longum ascrivendo alla prima tutti i frutti globosi di sapore dolce, che comprendono anche la Paprika ungherese, alla seconda le numerose variet\u00e0 coltivate nelle regioni calde e caratterizzate da frutti pi\u00f9 o meno allungati e piccanti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A proposito della Paprika \u00e8 bene chiarire anche qui che essa \u00e8 una variet\u00e0 di Peperone coltivata in grandi quantit\u00e0 in Ungheria dove la polpa dei frutti maturi essiccati e ridotti in polvere \u00e8 diventata il condimento nazionale, quello usato per il famoso gulasch, caratteristico per il suo sapore particolare e non per il piccante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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It is a widespread opinion, supported by many researchers, that the taste buds located in our mouths perceive only four of the basic flavors: sweet, salty, bitter and sour. Lately, apologists for oriental cuisine have tried to spread the idea of a fifth flavor, umami, identifiable, however, only by special or particularly trained palates, a flavor found mainly in the salts of glutamic acid widely used by the food industry as flavor enhancers. All Oriental cuisine employs, perhaps excessively, these salts, so much so that in medicine there is a so-called Chinese restaurant syndrome caused, in predisposed individuals, precisely by their use or abuse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As a fifth important flavor, we, reiterate, believe that spicy should be considered, that pleasant or unpleasant sensation, depending on habits, that ingredients such as Abrotano, Horseradish or Gren, Pepper, Radish, Watercress, Ditch Pepper, certain cheeses such as Pecorino, Gorgonzola, Bagolino and, above all, Chilly Pepper can give.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
And it is the chilly pepper that very often characterizes the cuisine of the South – in some cases replaced by ricotta forte -. It is the spiciness that dominates many Neapolitan, Apulian, Lucanian, Calabrian and Sicilian dishes, and the adjectives to describe it are uschiante, scant, forte, vruscente, that spiciness that neither nouvelle cuisine nor so-called creative cuisine have been able to erase; indeed, in the South it has resisted without shaking and now we are at the showdown, local cuisine is taking its revenge on ‘international’ cuisine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
But back to the subject of this BLOG. We have already named some of the ingredients of spicy cuisine and we want to recall, even if only with a few hints, their use. Horseradish, for example, is a herbaceous plant with threadlike leaves often used to add flavor to roasts and salads; horseradish or and is the indispensable base for the preparation of many horseradish sauces, the grated roots of which are used, is a very important accompaniment for boiled and roasted meats: it is so spicy that it wrinkles the nose; of the use of spicy cheeses for sauces, it is sufficient to mention the Sardinian pecorino traditionally irreplaceable in the preparation of Genovese pesto, different from the somewhat soft pesto obtained today with grana cheese and all the other mature pecorino cheeses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Chilly, however, requires special attention because thanks to it the world, as well as Italy, can virtually be divided into sweet and spicy, the cold countries sweet and the hot countries spicy. Roughly speaking, northern Italy is sweet, central and southern Italy spicy, starting from Versilia, which is all spicy, and going down to all the islands, excluding Sardinia. It is then clear that among the spicy regions a further subdivision could also be established, in Calabria and Basilicata, for example, chilli pepper is not typical of particular dishes, they put it everywhere, even in coffee, someone says to make the idea clear.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Suffice it to say that in Basilicata, they have a spicy sugna obtained by manipulating fresh lard with salt and chilly pepper for a long time; it is preserved in glass jars or in pig bladders and is used as a companion to spread on bread or to give strength to various everyday dishes; The way it is prepared reminds one of pennicam, the high-energy food of the North American Indian tradition, consisting of strips of dried buffalo or venison reduced to a paste, then mixed with sour cherries or other wild fruits, also dried. Nowadays, spiciness is also appreciated in the North, but it is only a recent acquisition due to the emigration of many people from the South who moved to the North, arms and baggage, even with the customs of their own cuisine, and put down solid roots there, contributing to changing the ancient customs of the host populations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
And given the importance of this spice, we feel we must give some botanical knowledge of the plant that produces it; it is understood that those who already know everything can immediately turn the page. It belongs to the genus Capsicum of the Solonaceae family, the same genus that also gives us the pepper, the exquisite summer vegetable that is now, in appropriate environments, produced in every season. Having established the genus, however, we need to agree on the species; since the last century, systematics scholars have been trying to shed light on the subject, but often only new confusion has been created. In any case, from the initial 90 specific names, the number was reduced to just twenty-five, and then it was concluded that there were two species: Capsicum annuum and Capsicum frutescens, the latter distinction, however, being based solely on vegetative characteristics and the length of the biological cycle. The former included all annual or biennial varieties, herbaceous or suffruticose, while the latter included those with a multi-year cycle, shrubby. Today, there is no shortage of those who consider all cultivated varieties as coming from a single species, Capsicum annuum. However, C. frutescent can only be determined in the sub-tropical climates of South America where the pepper originated.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Some scholars, then, basing themselves solely on the shape, speak of two covariates: gros sum and longum, ascribing to the former all the sweet-tasting globular fruits, which also include Hungarian Paprika, and to the latter the numerous varieties cultivated in hot regions and characterized by more or less elongated and spicy fruits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
With regard to Paprika, it should also be clarified here that it is a variety of pepper cultivated in large quantities in Hungary where the pulp of the dried and ground ripe fruits has become the national condiment, the one used for the famous goulash, characterized by its particular flavor and not by its spiciness.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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IL GUSTO PICCANTE The spicy taste \u30b9\u30d1\u30a4\u30b7\u30fc\u306a\u5473\u308f\u3044 \u00c8 opinione diffusa, avvalorata da molti ricercatori, che […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-709","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-foods-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/709","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=709"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/709\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":722,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/709\/revisions\/722"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=709"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=709"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=709"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}