Cronologicamente, in successione temporale, si deve pensare che le paste alimentari fresche siano nate prima di quelle secche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Accettato questo, si accetta anche che tutte le paste secche oggi in commercio prima che nel pastificio sono state confezionate a mano, in casa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Nella cucina del Sud la pasta \u00e8 uno degli ingredienti pi\u00f9 importanti, anzi si pu\u00f2 dire che \u00e8 ingrediente indispensabile per via della sua duttilit\u00e0, per il fatto di adattarsi, praticamente, ad infinite soluzioni: la base \u00e8 sempre quella, ma i modi di aggregarla non si contano. Una rivoluzione nell’evoluzione dei gusti alimentari.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Rivoluzione non fu, per\u00f2, l’invenzione della pasta fresca in s\u00e9, fatta e consumata, ma la scoperta della pasta secca che permetteva la conservazione di un prodotto importante e quindi l’accumulo di scorte alimentari. Col tempo la pasta secca divenne genere di largo consumo, addirittura fondamento dell’alimentazione per molte genti, come il pane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ma a quando risale questa scoperta? E quando il mondo occidentale ne \u00e8 venuto in possesso? La curiosit\u00e0 di saperio \u00e8 stata sempre forte, specialmente a Napoli dove i maccaruni erano quasi un dono degli dei, e fu proprio per questo motivo che Matilde Serao pens\u00f2 di regalare ai suoi concittadini la favola del mago Cicho che inventa i maccheroni e viene beffato dalla popolana Jovannella di Canzio che gli ruba il segreto e lo porta alla corte di Federico II, dove i maccaruni vengono conditi con sugo di pomodoro e diventano cibo universale; era l’anno 1220. Evidentemente fu il grande affetto per la sua citt\u00e0 che indusse la scrittrice ad inventare la favola; la quale sarebbe stata anche credibile, allora, se donna Matilde non ci avesse messo i pomodori che sotto Federico II non potevano nemmeno essere immaginati.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
C’\u00e8 chi, documenti alla mano, afferma che la pasta secca fu inventata dagli Arabi per necessit\u00e0 contingenti: non sempre potevano avere a disposizione acqua per impastare la farina e per cuocere l’impasto e trasportare l’una e l’altra era impossibile. Tirarsi dietro con le carovane la pasta secca era invece molto facile. Gli Arabi portarono con s\u00e9 la loro invenzione nelle terre conquistate al dominio bizantino nel secolo IX.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u00c8 proprio documentato che gli Arabi si dedicavano alla essiccazione delle paste alimentari, bucate e non bucate e che tali paste esportavano verso il continente. In Sicilia c’era il clima favorevole per l’essiccazione naturale e l\u00ec c’erano anche i grani duri da semola con contenuto di glutine e proteine vegetali molto superiore e quello dei grani teneri che si producevano e si producono nelle regioni del Nord dove, naturalmente, la tradizione ha sviluppato la tecnica delle tagliatelle e delle lasagne. Centro di produzione della pasta secca era Trabia nei pressi di Palermo dove con il favore di molti corsi d’acqua abbondavano i mulini e molte persone erano addette alla produzione dell’itrija (voce araba per vermicelli) che veniva esportata in gran copia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Non sappiamo se in Sicilia furono inventate anche le prime pastasciutte, sappiamo per\u00f2 che l\u00ec furono aperte le prime botteghe da pastaio. Dice il Sada che “dal Medio Evo al Settecento l’attivit\u00e0 del maccheronaro fu considerata come un’attribuzione casalinga od esercitata con sistemi primitivi, in modeste proporzioni, dai fornai”, poi nel Meridione sorsero pastifici un po’ dappertutto, al punto che nel 1810 la professione fu disciplinata e fu imposto l’obbligo del conseguimento di una “patente” per poterla esercitare. La vera industria delle paste alimentari nacque a Torre Annunziata per opera di pastai provenienti da Amalfi e Gragnano, quando fu trovato un sistema razionale di essicca- mento e la possibilit\u00e0 di evitare qualsiasi rischio di irrancidimen- to del prodotto: l’essiccazione rapida nel tempo pi\u00f9 breve possibile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ma le paste confezionate a mano hanno resistito benissimo a quelle fabbricate industrialmente, al punto che \u00e8 scomparsa la distinzione tra paste casalinghe e paste industriali: oggi l’aggettivo casalingo \u00e8 stato sostituito da quello pi\u00f9 efficace di “fresco”, anche perch\u00e9 con il modo di vivere frenetico la gente non ha pi\u00f9 il tempo materiale, la cultura e la voglia, di fare la pasta in casa. La pasta fresca si pu\u00f2 acquistare dall’artigiano sotto casa che la produce tutti i giorni, naturalmente non la lavora pi\u00f9 a mano ma la fabbrica a macchina. L’antica perizia e l’esperienza delle donne, a volte anche degli uomini, \u00e8 stata trasferita su piccole macchine non industriali che arrivano persino a fare delle pseudo orecchiette e degli pseudo strascinati. \u00c8 paradossale, a questo punto, osservare come in casa non ci sia pi\u00f9 nulla di casalingo e che la tradizione della pasta “fatta in casa” \u00e8 passata in mano a certi intelligenti ristoratori che della genuinit\u00e0 del cibo fanno il loro vanto, nel senso che offrono ai loro clienti abituali una cucina sana, saporita e genuina. \u00c8 uno spettacolo esaltante sbirciare la mattina in certe lindissime cucine emiliane per ammirare i grandi dischi di sfoglia gialla o verde che asciugano all’aria prima di diventare lasagne o tagliatelle, cos\u00ec come spettacolare si presenta la vista di certe cucine pugliesi dove, sedute davanti ad un tavolo infarinato, le donne, dalla massa di pasta, stendono un lungo cordone spesso un dito che tagliano man mano in segmenti nei quali velocissime affondano un ferrettino lungo e quadrato e con un colpo del palmo della mano ne ricava- no quei grossolani maccheroni cavi che di solito si condiscono con rag\u00f9. Nessuno si sogna pi\u00f9 di preparare in casa quelle pastine ottenute pizzicando la massa di semola con il pollice e l’indice e arrotolando uno per uno tanti semini minutissimi simili come forma ai pinoli, come nessuno prepara pi\u00f9 direttamente tante altre paste la cui fabbricazione, prima di entrare nei cataloghi dei pastifici, era affidata all’invenzione, alla scienza e all’esperienza delle donne di casa.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Nelle paste fresche si fa poi distinzione tra ripiene o farcite e speciali. Salvo che per i ravioli, diffusi pi\u00f9 o meno in tutte le regioni, le paste farcite sono quasi appannaggio esclusivo dell’Emilia Romagna e delle altre regioni del Nord e queste sono i tortelli, con pertinenti diminutivo e accrescitivo, gli agnolotti ed i cappelletti, cos\u00ec detti per la loro forma, i gi\u00e0 nominati ravioli, i pansooti liguri, simili ai tortelli, i casonsei bergamaschi, a formadi caramella, i friulani cjasson, etc. La cucina del Sud fa scarso uso di paste ripiene, mentre pu\u00f2 offrire una grandissima variet\u00e0 di paste speciali come strascinati, recchie di prevete, cecatelli, fusilli, ziti, mezzi ziti, perciatelli, etc., che, per lo pi\u00f9, si impastano a mano e senza uova<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Nella cucina del Sud le paste fatte in casa, a mano, si fanno dappertutto ma in modo particolare la tradizione ha resistito in Puglia e si confezionano con gli stessi strumenti di una volta: la spianatoia, un coltello per grattare la pasta che s’attacca al legno, il matterello e il ferro per i maccheroni cavi. Soprattutto si adopera semola di grano duro e rarissimamente, lo sottolineiamo, si impasta con le uova<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
Chronologically, in temporal succession, one must assume that fresh pasta originated before dry pasta.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Accepting this, one also accepts that all the dry pastas on the market today were made by hand, at home, before being made in the pasta factory.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In the cuisine of the South, pasta is one of the most important ingredients, indeed it can be said that it is an indispensable ingredient due to its ductility, due to the fact that it adapts, practically, to infinite solutions: the base is always the same, but the ways of combining it are countless. A revolution in the evolution of food tastes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Revolution was not, however, the invention of fresh pasta itself, made and consumed, but the discovery of dry pasta, which allowed for the preservation of an important product and thus the accumulation of food stocks. In time, dried pasta became a widely consumed genre, even a staple of the diet for many peoples, like bread.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
But when was this discovery made? And when did the Western world come into possession of it? The curiosity to know has always been strong, especially in Naples where maccaruni were almost a gift from the gods, and it was precisely for this reason that Matilde Serao thought of giving her fellow citizens the fable of the magician Cicho who invents macaroni and is mocked by the commoner Jovannella di Canzio who steals his secret and takes it to the court of Frederick II, where maccaruni are seasoned with tomato sauce and become a universal food; it was the year 1220. Evidently it was her great affection for her city that induced the writer to invent the fable; which would also have been believable, then, if donna Matilde had not put in the tomatoes, which under Frederick II could not even be imagined.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are those who, documents in hand, claim that dry pasta was invented by the Arabs out of contingent necessity: they could not always have water available to knead the flour and cook the dough, and transporting both was impossible. Carrying dry dough by caravan was instead very easy. The Arabs brought their invention with them to the lands conquered by Byzantine rule in the 9th century.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is well documented that the Arabs dedicated themselves to drying pasta, perforated and unperforated, and that they exported this pasta to the continent. Sicily had a favourable climate for natural drying and there were also hard semolina grains with a much higher gluten and vegetable protein content and soft grains that were and are produced in the northern regions where, of course, tradition has developed the technique of tagliatelle and lasagne. The centre of dried pasta production was Trabia near Palermo where, thanks to many waterways, mills abounded and many people were employed in the production of itrija (Arabic word for vermicelli) which was exported in large quantities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We do not know if the first pasta was also invented in Sicily, but we do know that the first pasta shops were opened there. Sada says that ‘from the Middle Ages to the 18th century, the activity of the macaroni maker was considered to be a home-made activity or practised with primitive systems, in modest proportions, by bakers’, then pasta factories sprang up a little everywhere in the south of Italy, to the point that in 1810, the profession was regulated and a ‘licence’ was imposed in order to be able to exercise it. The real pasta industry was born in Torre Annunziata by pasta makers from Amalfi and Gragnano, when a rational system of drying was found, and the possibility of avoiding any risk of the product going rancid: rapid drying in the shortest possible time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
.But hand-made pasta has held its own against industrially manufactured pasta, to the point that the distinction between homemade and industrial pasta has disappeared: today the adjective ‘homemade’ has been replaced by the more effective one of ‘fresh’, partly because with the frenetic way of life, people no longer have the material time, culture and desire, to make pasta at home. Fresh pasta can be bought from the artisan under the house who makes it every day, of course he no longer makes it by hand but makes it by machine. The ancient skill and experience of women, sometimes even men, has been transferred to small, non-industrial machines that even make pseudo orecchiette and pseudo strascinati. It is paradoxical, at this point, to observe how there is no longer anything homemade at home and that the tradition of ‘homemade’ pasta has passed into the hands of certain clever restaurateurs who make the genuineness of their food their boast, in the sense that they offer their regular customers healthy, tasty and genuine cuisine. It is an exhilarating sight to peek in the morning at certain luscious kitchens in Emilia to admire the large discs of yellow or green puff pastry drying in the air before becoming lasagne or tagliatelle, just as spectacular is the sight of certain kitchens in Puglia where, seated in front of a floured table the women, sitting in front of a floured table, roll out a long finger-thick cord from the mass of pasta, which they then cut into segments, into which they quickly sink a long, square noodle and, with a flick of the palm of their hand, extract the coarse, hollow macaroni usually served with meat sauce. Nobody dreams any more of preparing at home those pastine obtained by pinching the semolina mass with thumb and forefinger and rolling up, one by one, many tiny seeds similar in shape to pine nuts, just as nobody prepares directly any more many other pastas whose manufacture, before entering the catalogues of pasta factories, was entrusted to the invention, science and experience of the women of the house.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In fresh pasta, a distinction is then made between filled or stuffed and special. With the exception of ravioli, widespread more or less in all regions, filled pastas are almost the exclusive prerogative of Emilia Romagna and other northern regions and these are tortelli, with relevant diminutive and augmentative, agnolotti and cappelletti, so called because of their shape, the already mentioned ravioli, pansooti from Liguria, similar to tortelli, casonsei from Bergamo, shaped like candies, the Friulian cjasson, etc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
shaped, the Friulian cjasson, etc. Southern cuisine makes little use of filled pasta, while it can offer a huge variety of special pastas such as strascinati, recchie di prevete, cecatelli, fusilli, ziti, mezzi ziti, perciatelli, etc., which are mostly kneaded by hand and without eggs<\/p>\n\n\n\n
In the cuisine of the South, homemade pasta is made by hand everywhere, but the tradition has particularly endured in Puglia and is made with the same tools as in the past: a pastry board, a knife to scrape the pasta that sticks to the wood, a rolling pin and an iron for hollow macaroni. Above all, durum wheat semolina is used and very rarely, we stress, is it kneaded with eggs<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\u6642\u7cfb\u5217\u7684\u306b\u8a00\u3048\u3070\u3001\u751f\u30d1\u30b9\u30bf\u306f\u4e7e\u71e5\u30d1\u30b9\u30bf\u3088\u308a\u5148\u306b\u751f\u307e\u308c\u305f\u3068\u8003\u3048\u306a\u3051\u308c\u3070\u306a\u3089\u306a\u3044\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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PASTE FRESCE E PASTE SECCHE Fresh and dry Pasta \u751f\u30d1\u30b9\u30bf\u3068\u4e7e\u30d1\u30b9\u30bf Cronologicamente, in successione temporale, si […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-719","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-foods-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/719","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=719"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/719\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":721,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/719\/revisions\/721"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=719"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=719"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=719"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}