Si potrebbe dire che la cucina del Sud \u00e8 per met\u00e0 di terra e per l’altra met\u00e0 di mare, ma non sarebbe esatto, \u00e8 meglio dire che \u00e8 una cucina sempre mista, perch\u00e9 sono gli ortaggi e le erbe di campo il complemento di tutti i pasti quotidiani sia che si preparino con prodotti del mare che con quelli dell’allevamento delle aree pi\u00f9 interne dove la cultura del mare \u00e8 lontana. Un capitolo a s\u00e9 \u00e8 quello della provincia di Foggia, anticamente abitata dai Dauni, dove la tradizione ha sempre escluso il pesce. Il fenomeno risale a circa quattordici secoli prima di Cristo, quando i Dauni, tranquilli pastori greci, lasciarono le loro terre sotto la pressione dei Dori provenienti da Settentrione. Nella fuga molti tentarono di attraversare l’Adriatico ma, non avendo esperienza marinara, annegarono in gran numero, e nei superstiti rimase il terrore del mare. Per il resto pesce, crostacei e molluschi fanno parte della tradizione nella maggior parte delle popolazioni meridionali; il perch\u00e9 \u00e8 facile da capire: a parte la Lucania, che pur avendo sbocco su due mari diversi, ha uno sviluppo di costa piuttosto limitato, le altre regioni sono bagnate dal mare per lungo tratto e la Sicilia ne \u00e8 addirittura circondata.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Moltissimi piatti della cucina popolare sono nati in tempi particolari di disagi economici che hanno obbligato gli uomini a sfruttare al meglio le poche risorse disponibili e questo vale sia per la gente di terra, i contadini, che per quella di mare, i marinai. In tempi di miseria nera, i pescatori, per\u00f2, erano pi\u00f9 poveri dei contadini, specialmente quando il mare non permetteva loro di gettare le reti, perch\u00e9 d’inverno lo scirocco soffiava anche per settimane, o anche durante le guerre quando era loro vietato di uscire in mare per la pesca; si vedevano a piedi nudi, estate e inverno, mentre si recavano ai mercati dell’interno, con le scarpe unite per le stringhe e appese ad una spalla per non consumarle e con la bisaccia mai gonfia, nemmeno al ritorno. I contadini nella brutta stagione vivevano con le granaglie di scorta, ma i pescatori pi\u00f9 miserabili dovevano accontentarsi di acciughe salate e poco pane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Le marine soltanto negli anni Sessanta del secolo XX hanno assunto valore patrimoniale rilevante, ma prima erano terreni che davano scarsi raccolti, insufficienti al sostentamento delle popolazioni rivierasche. In quelle condizioni e con pochi ingredienti si \u00e8 sviluppata la cucina tradizionale, alla quale non ha mai fatto difetto l’olio d’oliva. Le zuppe, di pesce o semplicemente di molluschi o di crostacei, sono nate dalla necessit\u00e0 di rendere pi\u00f9 appetitoso il pane o le gallette quotidiane, cio\u00e8 sono nate come companatico. Gi\u00e0, il companatico, importantissimo! II pane quotidiano, bianco o scuro, dolce o amaro salvo che nei periodi di carestia dovuti a cattivi raccolti o guerre mai mancato; il problema, se mai, \u00e8 stato sempre quello di come mangiarlo pi\u00f9 o meno volentieri, con pi\u00f9 o meno gusto. Problema che \u00e8 stato risolto sempre con ottimi risultati.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
One could say that the cuisine of the South is half land and half sea, but this would not be accurate, it is better to say that it is always a mixed cuisine, because it is the vegetables and field herbs that complement all daily meals whether they are prepared with products from the sea or those from the farming of the more inland areas where the culture of the sea is distant. A chapter in itself is that of the province of Foggia, formerly inhabited by the Dauni, where tradition has always excluded fish. It dates back to around fourteen centuries before Christ, when the Dauni, peaceful Greek shepherds, left their lands under pressure from the Dorians coming from the north. In their flight, many attempted to cross the Adriatic but, lacking seafaring experience, they drowned in large numbers, and the survivors were left with the terror of the sea. For the rest, fish, crustaceans and molluscs are part of the tradition in most southern populations; the reason for this is easy to understand: apart from Lucania, which has an outlet on two different seas, but has a rather limited coastline, the other regions are washed by the sea for a long stretch, and Sicily is even surrounded by it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Many dishes of popular cuisine originated in particular times of economic hardship that forced people to make the best use of the few resources available, and this applies both to the people of the land, the peasants, and to those of the sea, the sailors. In times of black misery, however, fishermen were poorer than peasants, especially when the sea did not allow them to cast their nets, because in winter the sirocco would blow for weeks at a time, or even during wars when they were forbidden to go out to sea to fish; they could be seen barefoot, summer and winter, on their way to inland markets, with their shoes tied by the laces and hanging from one shoulder so as not to wear them out, and with their saddlebags never inflated, not even on their return. Farmers in the bad season lived on spare grain, but the most miserable fishermen had to make do with salted anchovies and little bread.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It was only in the 1960s that the marinas took on significant patrimonial value, but before that they were land that yielded poor harvests, insufficient to sustain the coastal populations. Under those conditions and with few ingredients, traditional cuisine developed, to which olive oil was never lacking. Soups, whether of fish or simply of shellfish or crustaceans, arose from the need to make the daily bread or galette more appetising, i.e. they were born as a companion. Yes, the companion, very important! The daily bread, white or dark, sweet or bitter except in times of famine due to bad harvests or wars, has never been lacking; the problem, if ever, has always been how to eat it more or less willingly, with more or less taste. A problem that has always been solved with excellent results.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
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IL MARE The Sea –\u00a0\u6d77 Si potrebbe dire che la cucina del Sud \u00e8 per […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-731","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-foods-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/731","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=731"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/731\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":732,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/731\/revisions\/732"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=731"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=731"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=731"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}