In un certo senso, e solo in questo per\u00f2, Marziale ha ragione quando afferma che certe fortune non le godono i padroni che le hanno accumulate, ma i servi che le sorvegliano. Pensiamo per esempio allo zappatore: d’estate sotto la canicola con la sua zappa da due chili e mezzo puntava nelle fessure del terreno e rivoltava enormi zolle che lasciava esposte al solleone in attesa delle piogge autunnali che le sciogliessero. Aveva ragione Marziale, che tempo l’arrivo della sera, avrebbe perch\u00e9 il contadino cambiato colore perch\u00e9 coperto dalla polvere rossa trattenuta dal sudore , durante la giornata qualche volta rompeva il ritmo del suo lavoro per raddrizzare la schiena dolorante, ma anche per raccogliere qualche frutto nascosto che la terra gli rendeva sotto il naso dal suo profondo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Raccoglieva le monacelle, le lumache marroni in letargo, del colore della terra, che apparivano improvvisamente, visibili per il loro bianchissimo opercolo protettivo; le raccoglieva e se le buttava man mano davanti. Allo stesso modo raccoglieva i lampascioni, i grossi bulbi violacei, che a sera metteva nella bisaccia. Erano frutti che il padrone non poteva apprezzare appieno, specialmente le monacelle. Quando il villano interrompeva il lavoro e, al riparo dalla brezza, con la giubba sulle spalle perch\u00e9 il sudore non gli si aciugasse addosso, faceva una fumata con la pipa di creta, bruciava una manciata di stoppie e buttava nel fuoco le chiocciole che arrostivano in pochi minuti, oppure le mangiava crude prima che iniziassero ad emettere la sua ripugnante bava. Era un privilegio di cui solo il contadino poteva godere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Si parler\u00e0 in altro luogo dei lampascioni, ora approfondiamo il discorso sulle lumache. Le chiocciole pi\u00f9 grandi sono chiamate ciammarruchi, cirumani, quaquar\u00f9n o caccav\u00f9n in Sicilia crastuni o anche babbaluci o vavaluci e sono le le famose escargot (Helix aspersa), oggetto di grande commercio e consumo; in molte zone, per\u00f2, non sono prese nemmeno in considerazione. Le monacelle o ntuppatiedhi (Helix aperta), quelle con la conchiglia marrone, sono le chiocciole terrestri pi\u00f9 apprezzate in quanto a gusto; se non si disotterrano quando sono ancora in letargo, si raccolgono in gran quantit\u00e0 dopo le prime piogge estive o in autunno quando le piogge autunnali sono cosa di tutti i giorni. Si prepararano i vari modi: quelle prese dal letargo subito appena private dell’opercolo bianco, le altre dopo essere state tenute a spurgare per qualche giorno; si fanno alla genovese o in umido con pomodoro: un tempo si facevano arrostire sotto la cenere del camino; erano anche piatto fisso delle osterie. Addirittura, in alcune localit\u00e0 sono oggetto di sagre paesane e nel leccese gli abitanti di Vitigliano sono detti \u201cmangia lumache” o meglio \u201cmangia cozze” – tutti i molluschi coperti da conchiglia o da valve si chiamano cozze, i mitili si chiamano cozze nere o cozze tarantine, le telline cozze patelle, e via di seguito . Sono molto apprezzate anche le cosiddette rigatelle o “cozze grosse” (Eobania vermiculata), con conchiglia allungata fino a trenta millimetri, bianche con righe sfumate di marrone, che vanno in letargo negli anfratti dei muri e sono molto pi\u00f9 rare.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Simili alle rigatelle sono le cozze piccinne o ciammarruch\u00e8l, quelle che a Napoli si chiamano maruzzelle janche (Helicella pisana), con conchiglia fino a 20 millimetri; queste si raccolgono numerosissime nei mesi estivi quando sono in letargo, sulle stoppie, sugli arbusti o sui tronchi degli alberi: si consiglia di non raccoglierle sulla nepetella (Calamintha nepeta) o su erbe come l’enula fetida (Inula graveolens), perch\u00e9 renderebbero immangiabili anche le altre; un tempo si mangiavano seduti fuori dall’uscio di casa, come passatempo tra vicini riuniti a conversare, al crepuscolo o al buio sotto le stelle quando nei campi non si poteva fare pi\u00f9 nessun lavoro. Assieme alle cozze piccinne, vivono le cozze purcinare (Helicella virgata) un po’ pi\u00f9 grosse delle precedenti assieme alle quali vengono raccolte e cucinate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Similar to the rigatelle are the piccinne or ciammarruch\u00e8l mussels, those which in Naples are called maruzzelle janche (Helicella pisana), with a shell of up to 20 millimetres; these are collected in large numbers in the summer months when they are hibernating, on stubble, shrubs or tree trunks: It is advisable not to collect them on nepetella (Calamintha nepeta) or on grasses such as enula fetida (Inula graveolens), because they would make the others inedible; they used to be eaten sitting outside the door of the house, as a pastime between neighbours gathered to converse, at dusk or in the dark under the stars when no more work could be done in the fields. Alongside the piccinne mussels, there are the purcina mussels (Helicella virgata), which are a little larger than the previous ones, and with which they are harvested and cooked.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
In a certain sense, and only in this however, Martial is right when he states that certain fortunes are not enjoyed by the masters who have accumulated them, but by the servants who guard them. Think for instance of the hoe driver: in the summer heatwave with his two-and-a-half-kilo hoe he would point into the cracks in the ground and turn over huge clods of earth, which he would leave exposed to the sun, waiting for the autumn rains to melt them away. He was right, Martial, that by the time evening arrived, the farmer would change colour because he was covered in the red dust retained by his sweat, and during the day he would sometimes break the rhythm of his work to straighten his aching back, but also to pick some hidden fruit that the earth yielded under his nose from its depths.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
He would pick up the monacelle, the hibernating brown snails, the colour of the earth, which would suddenly appear, visible by their very white protective operculum; he would pick them up and throw them in front of him. In the same way he would pick the lampascioni, the large purple bulbs, which he would place in his saddlebag in the evening. They were fruits that the master could not fully appreciate, especially the monacelle. When the peasant stopped work and, sheltered from the breeze, with his jacket over his shoulders so that the sweat would not dry on him, he would take a smoke with his clay pipe, burn a handful of stubble and throw the snails into the fire, which would roast in a few minutes, or he would eat them raw before they began to emit their repulsive slime. It was a privilege only the farmer could enjoy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We will talk elsewhere about lampascioni, now let’s talk more about snails. The largest snails are called ciammarruchi, cirumani, quaquar\u00f9n or caccav\u00f9n in Sicily crastuni or even babbaluci or vavaluci and are the famous escargot (Helix aspersa), which are traded and consumed widely; in many areas, however, they are not even considered. The monacelle or ntuppatiedhi (Helix aperta), the ones with the brown shell, are the most prized land snails in terms of taste; if they are not unearthed when they are still hibernating, they are harvested in large quantities after the first summer rains or in autumn when autumn rains are an everyday occurrence. They are prepared in various ways: those taken from hibernation immediately after the white operculum has been removed, the others after having been kept to drain for a few days; they are made with Genovese sauce or stewed with tomatoes: they used to be roasted under the ashes of the fireplace; they were also a regular dish in taverns. In some places, they are even the subject of village festivals, and in the Lecce area the inhabitants of Vitigliano are called ‘mangia lumache’ or rather ‘mangia cozze’ – all molluscs covered by a shell or valve are called mussels, mussels are called ‘cozze nere’ or ‘cozze tarantine’, tellinas are called ‘cozze patelle’, and so on. Also popular are the so-called rigatelle or ‘big mussels’ (Eobania vermiculata), with a shell length of up to thirty millimetres, white with stripes tinged with brown, which hibernate in the recesses of walls and are much rarer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Simili alle rigatelle sono le cozze piccinne o ciammarruch\u00e8l, quelle che a Napoli si chiamano maruzzelle janche (Helicella pisana), con conchiglia fino a 20 millimetri; queste si raccolgono numerosissime nei mesi estivi quando sono in letargo, sulle stoppie, sugli arbusti o sui tronchi degli alberi: si consiglia di non raccoglierle sulla nepetella (Calamintha nepeta) o su erbe come l’enula fetida (Inula graveolens), perch\u00e9 renderebbero immangiabili anche le altre; un tempo si mangiavano seduti fuori dall’uscio di casa, come passatempo tra vicini riuniti a conversare, al crepuscolo o al buio sotto le stelle quando nei campi non si poteva fare pi\u00f9 nessun lavoro. Assieme alle cozze piccinne, vivono le cozze purcinare (Helicella virgata) un po’ pi\u00f9 grosse delle precedenti assieme alle quali vengono raccolte e cucinate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Similar to the rigatelle are the piccinne or ciammarruch\u00e8l mussels, those which in Naples are called maruzzelle janche (Helicella pisana), with a shell of up to 20 millimetres; these are collected in large numbers in the summer months when they are hibernating, on stubble, shrubs or tree trunks: It is advisable not to collect them on nepetella (Calamintha nepeta) or on grasses such as enula fetida (Inula graveolens), because they would make the others inedible; they used to be eaten sitting outside the door of the house, as a pastime between neighbours gathered to converse, at dusk or in the dark under the stars when no more work could be done in the fields. Alongside the piccinne mussels, there are the purcina mussels (Helicella virgata), which are a little larger than the previous ones, and with which they are harvested and cooked.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n
\u3042\u308b\u610f\u5473\u3067\u306f\u3001\u30de\u30eb\u30b7\u30e3\u30eb\u304c\u300c\u3042\u308b\u8ca1\u7523\u306f\u3001\u305d\u308c\u3092\u84c4\u3048\u305f\u4e3b\u4eba\u304c\u4eab\u53d7\u3059\u308b\u3082\u306e\u3067\u306f\u306a\u304f\u3001\u305d\u308c\u3092\u5b88\u308b\u4f7f\u7528\u4eba\u304c\u4eab\u53d7\u3059\u308b\u3082\u306e\u3067\u3042\u308b\u300d\u3068\u8ff0\u3079\u3066\u3044\u308b\u306e\u306f\u6b63\u3057\u3044\u3002\u4f8b\u3048\u3070\u3001\u936c\u306e\u904b\u8ee2\u624b\u306e\u3053\u3068\u3092\u8003\u3048\u3066\u307f\u3088\u3046\u3002\u590f\u306e\u731b\u6691\u306e\u4e2d\u3001\u5f7c\u306f2.5\u30ad\u30ed\u306e\u936c\u3067\u5730\u9762\u306e\u5272\u308c\u76ee\u3092\u7a81\u304d\u3001\u5de8\u5927\u306a\u571f\u584a\u3092\u3072\u3063\u304f\u308a\u8fd4\u3057\u305f\u3002\u5f7c\u306e\u8a00\u3046\u901a\u308a\u3001\u5915\u65b9\u306b\u306a\u308b\u3068\u3001\u8fb2\u592b\u306f\u6c57\u3067\u8d64\u3044\u57c3\u306b\u307e\u307f\u308c\u3066\u9854\u8272\u3092\u5909\u3048\u3001\u65e5\u4e2d\u306f\u6642\u3005\u4ed5\u4e8b\u306e\u30ea\u30ba\u30e0\u3092\u5d29\u3057\u3066\u3001\u75db\u3080\u80cc\u7b4b\u3092\u4f38\u3070\u3057\u305f\u308a\u3001\u571f\u306e\u5965\u5e95\u306b\u96a0\u308c\u3066\u3044\u308b\u5b9f\u3092\u6458\u3093\u3060\u308a\u3057\u3066\u3044\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u51ac\u7720\u4e2d\u306e\u8336\u8272\u3044\u30ab\u30bf\u30c4\u30e0\u30ea\u3001\u30e2\u30ca\u30bb\u30eb\u3092\u62fe\u3046\u306e\u3060\u3002\u30ab\u30bf\u30c4\u30e0\u30ea\u306f\u571f\u306e\u8272\u3092\u3057\u3066\u3044\u3066\u3001\u7a81\u7136\u73fe\u308c\u308b\u3068\u3001\u305d\u306e\u771f\u3063\u767d\u306a\u4fdd\u8b77\u819c\u304c\u898b\u3048\u308b\u3002\u540c\u3058\u3088\u3046\u306b\u3001\u30e9\u30f3\u30d1\u30c3\u30b7\u30aa\u30fc\u30cb\u3068\u3044\u3046\u7d2b\u8272\u306e\u5927\u304d\u306a\u7403\u6839\u3092\u6458\u307f\u3001\u5915\u65b9\u306b\u306a\u308b\u3068\u30b5\u30c9\u30eb\u30d0\u30c3\u30b0\u306b\u5165\u308c\u308b\u3002\u7279\u306b\u30e2\u30ca\u30bb\u30c3\u30ec\u306f\u3001\u4e3b\u4eba\u306b\u306f\u5341\u5206\u306b\u5473\u308f\u3046\u3053\u3068\u306e\u3067\u304d\u306a\u3044\u679c\u7269\u3060\u3063\u305f\u3002\u8fb2\u592b\u306f\u4ed5\u4e8b\u306e\u624b\u3092\u6b62\u3081\u3001\u98a8\u3092\u907f\u3051\u3001\u6c57\u304c\u4e7e\u304b\u306a\u3044\u3088\u3046\u306b\u4e0a\u7740\u3092\u80a9\u306b\u304b\u3051\u3001\u571f\u7ba1\u3067\u4e00\u670d\u3057\u3001\u4e00\u63e1\u308a\u306e\u7121\u7cbe\u3072\u3052\u3092\u71c3\u3084\u3057\u3001\u30ab\u30bf\u30c4\u30e0\u30ea\u3092\u706b\u306b\u653e\u308a\u8fbc\u3080\u3002\u305d\u308c\u306f\u8fb2\u592b\u3060\u3051\u304c\u4eab\u53d7\u3067\u304d\u308b\u7279\u6a29\u3060\u3063\u305f\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u30e9\u30f3\u30d1\u30c3\u30b7\u30aa\u30fc\u30cb\u306b\u3064\u3044\u3066\u306f\u307e\u305f\u5225\u306e\u6a5f\u4f1a\u306b\u8a71\u3059\u3068\u3057\u3066\u3001\u30ab\u30bf\u30c4\u30e0\u30ea\u306b\u3064\u3044\u3066\u3082\u3063\u3068\u8a73\u3057\u304f\u8a71\u305d\u3046\u3002\u6700\u3082\u5927\u304d\u306a\u30ab\u30bf\u30c4\u30e0\u30ea\u306f\u3001ciammarruchi\u3001cirumani\u3001quaquar\u00f9n\u3001\u30b7\u30c1\u30ea\u30a2\u3067\u306fcaccav\u00f9n crastuni\u3001\u3042\u308b\u3044\u306fbabbaluci\u3001vavaluci\u3068\u547c\u3070\u308c\u3001\u6709\u540d\u306a\u30a8\u30b9\u30ab\u30eb\u30b4\uff08Helix aspersa\uff09\u3067\u3042\u308b\u3002\u8910\u8272\u306e\u6bbb\u3092\u6301\u3064\u30e2\u30ca\u30bb\u30eb\u307e\u305f\u306f\u30cc\u30c8\u30a5\u30c3\u30d1\u30c6\u30a3\u30a8\u30c7\u30a3\uff08Helix aperta\uff09\u306f\u3001\u5473\u306e\u70b9\u3067\u6700\u3082\u73cd\u91cd\u3055\u308c\u308b\u9678\u7523\u30ab\u30bf\u30c4\u30e0\u30ea\u3067\u3042\u308b\u3002\u51ac\u7720\u3057\u3066\u3044\u308b\u3068\u304d\u306b\u767a\u6398\u3055\u308c\u306a\u3051\u308c\u3070\u3001\u590f\u306e\u6700\u521d\u306e\u96e8\u306e\u5f8c\u304b\u3001\u79cb\u96e8\u304c\u65e5\u5e38\u7684\u306b\u964d\u308b\u79cb\u306b\u5927\u91cf\u306b\u53ce\u7a6b\u3055\u308c\u308b\u3002\u51ac\u7720\u304b\u3089\u899a\u3081\u3066\u3059\u3050\u306e\u3082\u306e\u306f\u767d\u3044\u819c\u3092\u53d6\u308a\u9664\u3044\u305f\u5f8c\u3001\u305d\u306e\u4ed6\u306e\u3082\u306e\u306f\u6570\u65e5\u9593\u6c34\u6c17\u3092\u5207\u3063\u305f\u5f8c\u3001\u30b8\u30a7\u30ce\u30d9\u30fc\u30bc\u30bd\u30fc\u30b9\u3084\u30c8\u30de\u30c8\u3068\u716e\u8fbc\u3093\u3060\u308a\u3001\u6696\u7089\u306e\u7070\u306e\u4e0b\u3067\u713c\u3044\u305f\u308a\u3001\u5c45\u9152\u5c4b\u306e\u5e38\u5099\u83dc\u306b\u3057\u305f\u308a\u3068\u3001\u3055\u307e\u3056\u307e\u306a\u8abf\u7406\u6cd5\u304c\u3042\u308b\u3002\u30ec\u30c3\u30c1\u30a7\u5730\u65b9\u3067\u306f\u3001\u30f4\u30a3\u30c6\u30a3\u30ea\u30a2\u30fc\u30ce\u306e\u4f4f\u6c11\u306f\u300c\u30de\u30f3\u30b8\u30a2\u30fb\u30eb\u30de\u30fc\u30c1\u30a7\u300d\u3001\u3042\u308b\u3044\u306f\u300c\u30de\u30f3\u30b8\u30a2\u30fb\u30b3\u30c3\u30c4\u30a7\u300d\u3068\u547c\u3070\u308c\u3066\u3044\u308b\u3002\u8c9d\u6bbb\u3084\u5f01\u306b\u8986\u308f\u308c\u305f\u8edf\u4f53\u52d5\u7269\u306f\u3059\u3079\u3066\u30e0\u30fc\u30eb\u8c9d\u3068\u547c\u3070\u308c\u3001\u30e0\u30fc\u30eb\u8c9d\u306f\u300c\u30b3\u30c3\u30c4\u30a7\u30fb\u30cd\u30ec\u300d\u307e\u305f\u306f\u300c\u30b3\u30c3\u30c4\u30a7\u30fb\u30bf\u30e9\u30f3\u30c6\u30a3\u30fc\u30cc\u300d\u3001\u30c6\u30ea\u30fc\u30ca\u306f\u300c\u30b3\u30c3\u30c4\u30a7\u30fb\u30d1\u30c6\u30c3\u30ec\u300d\u306a\u3069\u3068\u547c\u3070\u308c\u308b\u3002\u307e\u305f\u3001\u6bbb\u306e\u9577\u3055\u304c30\u30df\u30ea\u307b\u3069\u3067\u3001\u767d\u5730\u306b\u8910\u8272\u306e\u7e1e\u6a21\u69d8\u304c\u3042\u308b\u3001\u3044\u308f\u3086\u308b\u30ea\u30ac\u30c6\u30c3\u30ec\u307e\u305f\u306f\u300c\u5927\u304d\u306a\u30e0\u30fc\u30eb\u8c9d\u300d\uff08Eobania vermiculata\uff09\u3082\u4eba\u6c17\u304c\u3042\u308b\u3002<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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LE CHIOCCIOLE DI TERRA The land snails-\u308a\u304f\u304c\u3044 In un certo senso, e solo in questo […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[37],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-757","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-foods-blog"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/757","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=757"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/757\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":758,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/757\/revisions\/758"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=757"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=757"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/maufood.com\/STAGE\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=757"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}